…it's a passionate obsession.

Posts tagged “allotment

woohooo…has summer finally arrived.

And I’m feeling allllrightttt…

…the sun is out and the temperature is raising…..and I’m standing outside of the greenhouse. ¬†How great is that. ūüėÄ ¬†So, what’s been happening at the photographer’s garden, well…

DSC_1540The tomatoes have finally moved to their final positions in the greenhouse.

DSC_1541This is the happiest of all the trays of beetroot. The rest are in a mood because I’ve pricked them out to late – beetroot hate having their roots disturbed.

DSC_1542The parsnips are doing fab – trying to keep the temps down as growth will stop – veg seedlings don’t like extreme temps.

DSC_1543Looks like I’m going to have a glut of Lettuce – I do the same thing every year. However, I’ve a great little soup recipe – Green Herb Soup. My boss would make this for the guests, when I use to lived at the Lakes, it’s fab !

I’ll post the recipe later though. ūüôā

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LOL my only Cauliflower seedling to germinate, well I did chance an old packet of seeds, Clapton this variety. Notoriously difficult to grow, this variety is surprisingly¬†easy. Erm yeh, think I’ll buy a fresh packet next year.

DSC_1545Basil. ¬†It’ll be growing alongside the tomatoes in the greenhouse, as it doesn’t grow very well outside…just goes all black and withers – just too cold.

DSC_1546Mini-pop (baby corn) on the left and Sweetcorn on the right. Both planted differently – Mini-pop in single rows 20ins apart. Sweetcorn in blocks of four 16ins each way. Never had a bad crop yet !

DSC_1548Squash, planting these alongside my pumpkins for Halloween.

DSC_1550Giant Sunflowers, well, not at the moment. Soon, I hope…

DSC_1552Busy Lizzies, sowed them quite late really but it doesn’t matter. Should be ready for the hanging baskets by the end of June if I prick them out now.

DSC_1553I don’t tend to grow broccoli but thought, what the hell give it another go.

DSC_1554Ha, my cucumber plant, La Diva. These are murder for getting powdery mildew but if you catch it early…spray the leaves with diluted milk and water and this does help to reduce the damage. lol Anno milk and water, seriously this does work. One solution is to UP the humidity – the blue tray will be filled with water ¬†to keep the immediate area around the plants, as humid as possible. Lets see what happens !!

DSC_1555I’ll have a P please bob….yes, you can’t have an allotment without a wigwam of peas. The trouble is, the pea moth loves them too. Fleece may be the answer.

DSC_1556I can’t wait for these to ripen. Bought these strawberry plants from a nursery down south – on the left a variety called Vibrant and on the right Marshmello. One thing is for sure, I’ve never seen plants so big, the flowers are massive. ūüôā ūüôā

DSC_1557Potatoes !! Main crop – Rooster, nice spuds and versatile.

DSC_1558More potatoes !! haha. First earlies – Anya, love these…nice nutty flavor great with salads.

DSC_1559Peppers, going to pot these on tomorrow. They’re not happy because their roots are too hot.

DSC_1560A mates baskets – filled with bacopa, million bells and surfina. Think I only planted them up 2 weeks ago, already they’ve doubled in size. ūüôā ¬† ¬†Fantastic !!

So that just leaves the rest of the weeding to finish off….oh man. hehe

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Hello…

…is it me your looking for.

Ooops !!

I haven’t forgotten…..really. Time these Jack O’ lantern pumpkins were potted on, being very greedy and hungry plants they’d soon suffer if I didn’t.

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Using a fork gently lift from the tray.

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And pot on into individual modules; where they’ll remain for 2 weeks before being repotted again.

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Cheers.


Hot Pepper

Since the weather was very poor and not much can be done outside. I figured it was time to sow my peppers before it’s too late. The seeds were covered with a 1/4″ of compost and put into a carrier bag to conserve moisture and placed in a warm place. Seedlings should appear in 7-14 days. Hmmm, we’ll see.

pepper


Growing lobelia – a method I like to use

Since I can’t get out and about. I thought I’d share my way of dealing with lobelia seeds. I often read the problems associated with lobelia, yet I find it one of the easiest to grow. Having said that, many of my methods were learnt through¬†trial and error.¬†

lobelia

1. Surface sow the seed onto moist compost in 4 or 5 rows and mist to adhere to seed to the compost. Here I’ve used the half size seed trays but you can use any size you wish. ¬†Put into a carrier bag and using the handles, loosely tie so as not to let any moisture escape. Put into a warm light room/greenhouse and check at least once a day. Water using a fine spray bottle. Once germination has started remove from bag and position in a bright place, away from direct sunlight – direct sun will burn young seedlings.

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2. The seedlings should look something like this after a few weeks.

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3.¬†When the seedlings reach this size they’re ready to be split and put into individual pots/modules.

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4. Using a ruler for example, run it along the edge and underneath Рvery similar to loosening a cake from its tin.

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5. Using the ruler, use it to cut each row.


6. It should look like this once it is separated.


 7. I find the ruler comes in handy when lifting from the tray.

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8. Gently split into little clumps Рthey are very robust, so do not worry.

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9. And pot on, into cells.

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10. Then finally water from below – here a poundshop cat litter tray does the bizz………and transfer to a warm greenhouse for them to grow on.

After a few weeks the roots should have took and the plant will have grown in size. This is the time to transfer the trays to a non heated place until its time for hardening off, which usually lasts for 2 weeks. Once the risk of frosts and nasty weather has passed they’ll be ready for planting in your favorite places. And don’t forget, for great displays feed regularly – just like us, they need food to maintain their looks throughout the season.

So, if you fancy giving Lobelia a go – this is a great method and one which works for me. Happy gardening. ūüôā


I’ll be back !

It’s been a crazy 6 months or so and I’ve not had much spare time. Anyway it’s a new year, new season and I’m keener than ever to get started.

Checkout my 12 new babies they arrived a week or so ago as bare-root specimens and look at them now – unfurling and straightening out.

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What’s growing so far…

What started out as a cool dull day has ended beautifully¬†– hot and sunny. In fact, it’s been so beautiful this past week I’ve even worn my shorts, and¬†I confess, I’ve throughly enjoyed every minute of it. Waking up each morning to blue sky with temperatures to match, really does put a smile on ones chops and a spring in your step with an eagerness to get things done.¬†So how fab was today, with 90% of the potting on completed and my hanging baskets all made up, that I finally got the chance to simply wander round the allotment, pretty much stress free, and checkout what’s growing so far…

Gooseberries

Lettuce – reddish bronzed leaf variety, seeds from the Eden Project.

Garlic

Pumpkins, Jack O’Lantern – ready for hardening off.

Peas, Early Onward.


Taste of summer

Strawberries, one of the most versatile¬†fruits available and growing in my garden. If you’ve never tasted a sun warmed, freshly picked strawberry, straight off the plant, then your missing out on one major sweet, juicy pleasure – not long till I do just that.

Strawberry plants are very easy to look after Рfirst year ;-

  1. Choose a weed free, full sun, fertile, well-drained site.
  2. Space plants 10-12 inches a part.
  3. Before planting add extra organic matter to make the soil rich.
  4. Once planted keep soil moist.
  5. In first year remove flowers to encourage a strong root system.
  6. Remove dead leaves at the end of the season.

Second year and thereafter ;-

  1. In spring feed plants with a general fertiliser such as growmore.
  2. Weed and keep moist.
  3. During the growing season, feed every 7-14 days with a liquid potash such as tomato feed.
  4. As fruits start to swell, lay either straw or fibre mats around plants to prevent strawberries from being contaminated by soil.
  5. Pin down any runners until a good root system develops, then cut from the mother plant.
  6. Once harvesting as finished, remove old leaves, straw or fibre mats and do a general tidy-up of the area to prevent a build-up of pests and diseases.

Strawberry plants crop at their best for 3 years, use runners as a replacement¬†of old plants. It’s also a good idea to use¬†the crop rotation method as this helps to minimise attacks from pests and diseases that lurk in the soil.